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Why skirting boards deserve proper preparation

Skirting boards take more punishment than almost any other surface in a UK home. They get scuffed by shoes, bumped by the hoover, splashed by mops and hidden behind furniture for years at a time. That's exactly why a neat finish matters so much: because they're low down and run the full length of every room, a scrappy paint line is instantly obvious. Get them right and the whole room looks sharper; get them wrong and the eye is drawn straight to the wobbles and drips.

The good news is that skirting boards are one of the most forgiving things you can paint, provided you do the boring bits first. Rushing the preparation is what causes 90% of messy results. Set aside an hour for prep, and the painting itself becomes quick and surprisingly satisfying.

Gather the right kit before you start

You don't need much, but the brushes matter enormously. Most DIY disasters on skirting come from using a brush that's too wide. A 25mm to 38mm angled sash brush is the single best tool for the job: the cut angle lets you lay a precise line along the top edge where the skirting meets the wall, while the narrow head gives you control in the corners.

• An angled sash brush, 25–38mm, ideally synthetic bristles for water-based paint
• A small foam roller or mini roller for the flat face of long runs
• Fine sandpaper or a sanding sponge, around 120–180 grit
• Decorator's filler and a flexible filling knife
• Low-tack masking tape
• A dust sheet or old bed sheet, plus a damp cloth
• An old credit card or plastic scraper for running along the floor line

If your skirting is already painted and sound, you can often skip primer. If it's bare timber or a previous coat is flaking, a suitable primer or stain-blocking undercoat will save you a lot of heartache later.

Prepare the surface properly

Start by clearing the area and laying your dust sheet right up to the skirting. Work along the whole run with a scraper first to lift any loose or flaking paint, then sand the boards lightly with 120-grit paper. You're not trying to strip them back to bare wood, just to key the surface so the new paint grips. Pay extra attention to any glossy patches, which need to look dull before you paint over them.

Wipe everything down with a damp cloth afterwards to remove dust. On older properties, use a cloth dampened with warm soapy water to lift years of grime and furniture polish, then let it dry completely.

Next, deal with the gaps. Over time, skirting shrinks away from the wall and the gap fills with dust and cobwebs. Run a thin bead of decorator's caulk or flexible filler along the top edge, then smooth it with a damp finger or a small filling knife. This single step transforms the finish: a filled gap gives you a clean line to paint against, and it removes the dark shadow that makes even a good paint job look tired. Fill any nail holes and small dents at the same time, then sand the filler back flush once it's dry.

Cutting in without splashing the walls

This is the part people dread, and it's entirely manageable with the right technique. Don't overload the brush. Dip only the bottom third of the bristles in the paint and tap off the excess against the side of the tin rather than wiping it on the rim, which just wastes paint and creates drips.

Hold the angled brush like a pencil, with your hand close to the bristles for maximum control. Start about 10cm away from a corner and work towards it, letting the tip of the brush lead. Draw the brush along the top edge in one steady stroke, keeping a light, even pressure. It's better to take two thin coats than one thick one: thin paint follows the line, thick paint slumps over it.

If you're worried about the wall, run a strip of low-tack masking tape along the top edge of the skirting, press it down firmly, and paint up to it. Peel it off while the paint is still slightly tacky, pulling slowly at a low angle, and you'll get a crisp line almost every time. Just remember that tape won't save you from a flooded brush, so keep the loading light.

Protecting the floor and other edges

Along the bottom edge, where the skirting meets the floor, slide a credit card or plastic scraper along as you paint. Any paint that travels down the bristles lands on the card instead of your carpet or floorboards, and you simply wipe it and move on. If you're painting a hard floor, masking tape along the join works well, but press the edge down hard with a fingernail so paint can't creep underneath.

When cutting around door frames and architraves, don't try to do both surfaces in one go. Paint the skirting first, let it dry, then paint the frame. Any minor overlap will be hidden by the frame's own paint line.

Finishing touches that make the difference

Two thin coats always beat one thick one, and a light sanding with 180-grit paper between coats removes brush marks and nibs. Use a mini roller on long, flat runs to speed things up, then lay off with the brush for an even finish. Keep a damp rag in your pocket for immediate wipe-ups, and check for drips under the bottom edge, where they love to hide.

Leave the paint to harden fully, ideally overnight or longer in cool weather, before pushing furniture back against it. Once it's dry, run a fingernail gently along the top line: if it's firm and unmarked, you've done it properly. There's a quiet satisfaction in skirting boards painted this neatly, and you'll notice them every time you walk into the room.